{"id":3611,"date":"2013-11-12T12:30:31","date_gmt":"2013-11-12T11:30:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/?p=3611"},"modified":"2013-11-12T15:27:55","modified_gmt":"2013-11-12T14:27:55","slug":"silence-daybreak-dark-afternoon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/silence-daybreak-dark-afternoon\/","title":{"rendered":"Silence. Before daybreak, After Dark and in the Afternoon."},"content":{"rendered":"<h1>Silence. \u00a0Times when the heart listens.<\/h1>\n<h2><strong>Before Daybreak.<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>In 2010, a Jacobean Year, I happened to finish my Camino on October 12th, the Feast of the Virgin of the Pilar. \u00a0The Pilar is a pillar, a roman pillar on which the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to James the Apostle on his way to Santiago. \u00a0About wo millennia on from this legendary apparition, Gallicians in their thousands were descending on Santiago at the same times as myself. \u00a0My own pilgrimage coincided with a mass exodus from Vigo which filled all the available accommodation, and heavy rain storms which put me off sleeping outdoors. \u00a0The worst night of all was in Caldas del Reis where we all &#8220;slept&#8221; shoulder to shoulder on the floor with constant chattering all night, pleas for silence and shooshing every few minutes, \u00a0tobacco smoke emerging from the loos and a few lucky ones managing to snore.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3622\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040566.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3622\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3622\" alt=\"Ancient Cruceiro, before dawn. Silence.\" src=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040566.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040566.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040566-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-3622\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ancient Cruceiro, before dawn. Silence.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>I packed up and left about 4 am, stepping over bodies to find the exit and inhale deeply the smoke-free air of the night. \u00a0With a shudder of relief and a little apprehension I set off trying to make out the yellow arrows. \u00a0The camino entered into a forest and the little light there had been from the stars and a bit of moonlight was extinguished completely. \u00a0I used my walking pole to tell me where the side of the path was and moved each foot carefully feeling for solid ground. \u00a0The rain had left little streams running across the path which, from time to time soaked my sandals. \u00a0Whenever I stopped there was silence. \u00a0All my senses were alert and my body tense. \u00a0Then I relaxed, breathed in slowly and fully. Elation, a great elation, a lightness and a peace took over. \u00a0I wondered \u00a0how I could have lived so long without venturing alone in the dark into a forest. \u00a0Now I was present to myself and in the silence I could feel my blood pumping in my ears.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3625\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040528.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3625\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3625\" alt=\"Another cruceiro, early morning, Cmino Portuguese.\" src=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040528.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040528.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040528-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-3625\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another cruceiro, early morning, Camino Portuguese.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>There is a prayer of Theresa of Calcutta which \u00a0Pilar and I say each morning and on this early morning in the dark of the forest, alone, I broke the silence by saying it out loud, quietly,<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;<em>Today, let Peace reign over us. \u00a0Let me trust in God, \u00a0Let me trust that here, where I am, is exactly where I am meant to be&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3627\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040570.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3627\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3627\" alt=\"Arriving in Santiago at dawn.\" src=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040570.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040570.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1040570-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-3627\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Arriving in Santiago at dawn.<\/p><\/div>\n<h2><strong>Silence in the afternoon.<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>The Ruta de La Lana joins the Camino Franc\u00e9s in Burgos. \u00a0I enjoyed meeting up with other pilgrims and becoming part of the Camino community, after a month walking on my own. \u00a0I missed, though, the solitude, so I found that I could have both if I continued walking in the afternoon. \u00a0In May of this year (2013), the Camino Franc\u00e9s was busy so nearly all the pilgrims stopped around lunchtime since the albergues filled up quickly. \u00a0The Camino fell silent.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3628\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1000383.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3628\" alt=\"Afternoon on the Canal de Castilla\" src=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1000383.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1000383.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1000383-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-3628\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Afternoon on the Canal de Castilla<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Solitude and silence can be torture if imposed. \u00a0When it is a choice it is a wardrobe, a home, a castle, a warm sleeping bag, a comfort which makes all comforts redundant. \u00a0In God&#8217;s presence, even when he feels absent, we have our home. \u00a0The Camino, even the busy Camino Franc\u00e9s, offers moments of silence. \u00a0The pilgrim has chosen to leave the noises of everyday life behind. \u00a0The simple business of walking 100, 200, 800 kms distances us from these noises. \u00a0If we can take that little bit of extra space, in a meadow, up a tree, in a church, or on a secluded stone in a copse, God speaks to us in silence. \u00a0The <a title=\"Top Camino Forum.\" href=\"http:\/\/www.caminodesantiago.me\/community\/\" target=\"_blank\">Camino Forums<\/a> are witnesses to many stories of life-changing moments on the Camino.<\/p>\n<p>These afternoons on the Camino Franc\u00e9s were the easiest walking I had this year. \u00a0The emptiness meant that the Camino had quite a different feel to it compared with the mornings. \u00a0The few pilgrims I met passed me by quickly, slowing down for a greeting, but moving on to their night&#8217;s destination. \u00a0Often they were people who had little time off work and wanted to walk a good distance each day. \u00a0Otherwise the way was deserted.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3630\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1000365.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3630\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3630\" alt=\"Another snail.\" src=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1000365.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1000365.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1000365-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-3630\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another snail.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>When the weather permitted I would lie down for a siesta on the side of the Camino watching the camino and seeing how close the birds would come. \u00a0I&#8217;d watch the wind in the grass and the reeds, the constantly re-forming cauliflower clouds and I would close my eyes, resting, doing nothing. \u00a0It is wonderful to do nothing. \u00a0If God has given me one great grace, this is it: to know that He wants me to do nothing, a lot. \u00a0He has, I believe, given everyone this grace but, like silence, this gift often lies in a drawer unopened.<\/p>\n<h2><strong>The silence of the night.<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Dusk and dawn are noisy times. \u00a0It is when many animals seek their food. \u00a0When I am sleeping out they root around, coming very close if I have left any food unwrapped. \u00a0In Spain, it is usually wild boar and deer; \u00a0in England it was foxes, deer and badgers. \u00a0Then in the middle of the night silence falls. \u00a0When walking during the day I am aware of the silence, but walking itself is noisy with the crushing of my sandals on the earth and the rustling of clothes. \u00a0At night I can be motionless, there is no traffic, there are no airplanes or flies.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_3634\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1080170.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3634\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3634\" alt=\"One of my few night-time photos, England, near Macclesfield.  I walked late into the night and triggered an arrhythmia.\" src=\"http:\/\/www.the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1080170.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1080170.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/P1080170-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-3634\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of my few night-time photos, England, near Macclesfield. I walked late into the night and triggered an arrhythmia.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>I sleep well in the open air so I usually only snatch a moment of silence and a deep contented awe at my smallness under the heavens. \u00a0There is a point, about 4 or 5 am when the temperature drops suddenly and I wake up. \u00a0I know the animals will soon be nosing around so I snuggle up in a bundle in my sleeping bag smelling the grass as it gathers its dew. \u00a0The day is beginning and I reach in my memory for Mother Theresa&#8217;s prayer,<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;<em>Today, let Peace reign over us. \u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Let me trust in God, \u00a0Let me trust that here, where I am, is exactly where I am meant to be.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Let me not forget the infinite number of possibilities which are born of Faith.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Let me use the gifts I have been given and share the love which has been given to me.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>I am happy to know that I am a child of God,<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>and to let His presence fill me to the marrow of my bones and free my soul to sing, to dance, to rejoice and to love.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Silence. \u00a0Times when the heart listens. Before Daybreak. In 2010, a Jacobean Year, I happened to finish my Camino on October 12th, the Feast of the Virgin of the Pilar. \u00a0The Pilar is a pillar, a roman pillar on which &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/silence-daybreak-dark-afternoon\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9,98,3,8],"tags":[91,61,1231,1227],"class_list":["post-3611","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-camino-frances","category-camino-portuguese","category-pilgrimage-and-prayer","category-the-camino-de-santiago","tag-camino-franc","tag-england","tag-mother-theresa","tag-virgin-mary"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3611","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3611"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3611\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3611"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3611"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/the-raft-of-corks.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3611"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}