Via de La Plata – First Steps

On St. Patrick’s Day, 17th March 2010, I set out on my first Camino to Santiago by the Via de La Plata.  I collected my Credentials, the essential document for the pilgrim, from the Backpacker’s Hostal in Tirana, Seville and started walking.

Backpacker's Hostal.

Backpacker’s Hostal in Tirana

 

I walked out of Seville along the river, under motorways and over bridges surprised and buoyed by so many people saying “Buen Camino”.  A lorry driver shouted it out of his cab at a roundabout and the Guardia Civil from their patrol car as well as a Gypsy woman hanging out her washing.  Last year a young Danish boy said he was astonished how many people greeted him with this encouragement on the busy Camino Francés, wishing him well as if he were the only pilgrim they has seen in months. (From May to October over 700 a day can pass by on that route). The Spanish do seem to have remarkable way of looking straight at a stranger and inviting friendship.

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As I continued, I became used to being greeted by everyone I passed in the next 1000 kms so much so that it now feels strange to be in a city where people don’t say “hello” when they pass in the street.  The Caminos traverse rural Spain. It may be the case that in all countries the rural life has less preoccupations than city life but I prefer to think that we all can have preoccupations which distract us from “seeing” others. Somehow in Spain the people do reach out with a smile, or a word of welcome which always seems fresh and genuine.

Seville is a great place to start a Camino, but don’t expect a night’s sleep if you stay in the Backpackers’ Hostal.  It is as renown for its parties, as is Seville for its Fiestas.

After a few hours walking I reached the outskirts of the city and passed the Roman Ruins of Italica.

Italica ruins

Italica ruins

 

This was the first of many cultural sights I opted to by-pass although I enjoyed the thought that quite a few Roman Emperors, (Hadrian and Trajan among them) were born in Italica. Many Italians won’t believe you if you tell them this. So the Roman origins of the Via de La Plata, which is a route adorned with architectural gems from the days of the Roman Empire, present themselves to the pilgrim a few kilometres outside of Seville.

There is a long, straight path, well signed by the yellow arrows of the Camino which leads pilgrims into the lower part of the Sierra de Norte.  It passes through fields which on this March evening were very damp.  At nightfall I came to an arroyo: a stream which is seasonally substantial.  There was a car stuck in it.

Van stuck in arroyo

Van stuck in arroyo

The river was deep and the bottom had a layer of mud which quickly swallowed my sandals.  So, I lay down and slept my first night with my Camino impassable.

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Repetitive Prayer on the Camino

Il est bon, il est bon, qu’il est bon, le bon Dieu.

This was a phrase  I had picked up from Gerry W Hughes S.J. who used it on his walks to Rome and Jerusalem.  Walking long distances is only possible if we listen to the rhythm of our bodies which, if we let them,  settle into a pattern, changing from time to time, like gears, depending on our energy, the terrain and our spiritual state.  This rhythm lends itself to repetitive prayer which serves as an entry into more contemplative prayer.

One of the great spiritual classics of the Orthodox Christians is “The Way of the Pilgrim”. This pilgrim uses only one phrase and uses it incessantly.  For me, the first phrase I used came from a priest who served the parishes of Almaden de la Plata and El Real de la Jara. These are the last villages in the Province of Seville on the Via de La Plata.

Above Almadén de La Plata

Above Almadén de La Plata

This photo has a signpost which says, “The End of the Way –  Calvary”.  It stands on a ridge in the Sierra North of Almadén de La Plata, a village which is blessed with a good albergue in which I stayed a night.  In the evening I went to Mass and the priest seemed to be miserable.  Fortunately he had two cheery nuns who helped breathe life into the singing and welcome everyone.  The next day I arrived early in Jara de la Real which is only a few very pleasant kilometres from Almadén. Passing the church, the same nuns spotted and greeted me so I went into the church and to my horror it was also the same priest saying Mass again.  I really considered leaving and going on my way but it began to rain, so I stayed.

The Church in Real de La Jara, Seville, Sierra del Norte

The Church in Real de La Jara, Seville, Sierra del Norte

The priest had changed.  This man had had a conversion overnight.  18 hours earlier he seemed suicidal, totally miserable.  Yet here he was warmly inviting all to come and share this common meal, to eat and drink and become one body together in God’s love, through Jesus Christ.  He was inspiring in his sermon and at the end of it he suggested we say, “Jesus en ti confio” regularly during the week.  I was obviously struck by this and it became for me, over my Caminos, one of my mantras.

I find that one or other of these little phrases come into my head suddenly and on the Camino de Levante (from Valencia) I noticed I was using “Jesús en tí confio” when I was in pain, which was often.  Somehow it fitted my pace and on more than one occasion my pain eased.  I don’t select these phrases consciously, they just seem to pop up.  The Gerry Hughes one, “Il est bon, il est bon, qu’il est bon, le bon Dieu” seems to fit climbing hills very well which is fitting since I first met Gerry when he was taking students up mountains in Scotland.

Another one I use a lot is a prayer for Faith, Humility and Trust, but I just repeat the three words “faith, humility and trust”.  These phrases can be repeated for only a few minutes or for hours.  It doesn’t matter. I always need to ask for Faith since although I don’t associate Faith with beliefs ( cf miracles) I am always strongly tempted to feel that all my spirituality is a set of psychological quirks, hormonal imbalances and a blindness to Darwinism. Humility, for me, is a foundation stone.  Without it I don’t see people.  And Trust?  Well, I have wanted to be in control in my life and didn’t manage it, so I like to remember the times when I have cried out for help and to remember that it works.

There is also the rosary.  This I use when I’m out of prayer, out of inner silence and when I’m distracted.  It’s a formula for staying with my intention to pray at times when I can’t . I also have found it helpful when I am absorbed in the beauty of the scenery. Then I like to shout out loud at the end, “Glory be to the Father” and, inexplicably, less loudly, “and to the Son”, trailing off in volume with  “and to the Holy Spirit.”   On mountains I can be very loud.  I imagine most people are the same.

Above Ponferrada; a good spot for shouting, "Glory be.."

Above Ponferrada; a good spot for shouting, “Glory be..”

 

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Prayer

If you are moved to prayer, make a donation.

If you are moved to prayer, make a donation.

On the Via de La Plata, my first Camino, I learned a lot about prayer and in this blog I will return to the theme of prayer often.  I left Seville just before Holy Week when the preparations for this solemn festival were in full swing.

jesus, ready for burial and a procession through Seville.

Jesus, ready for burial and a procession through Seville.

What do you think when you see these photos?  What do you feel?  I imagine all sorts of reactions from compassion to anger to mirth.  Perhaps it is hard to accept the imagery and the public displays of emotion which erupt on the streets of the villages and towns of Spain in Holy Week.  I love it……. although for many years I held it in theological suspicion which closed me off to understanding why this matters to so many.

This encounter with Spanish piety at the beginning of my pilgrimage stands out in contrast to what actually happened for me in my schooling in prayer over the following 40 days.

I suppose my Camino prayer-life began with a very simple, poorly adressed question.  I was not clear to whom I should speak:  to God? to Jesus? the Holy Spirit? The Father? Do they have the same postcode?  (16860, Turkey).

With an open heart I was genuinely asking, “What should I be doing on this Camino?  Is there a purpose in this journey? Tell me why I am doing this!”  Asking whom?  I didn’t know, but vaguely, God and probably Jesus, by a process of elimination.  I got an answer.

How did I receive the answer?  I still wonder myself if it was just one part of my brain talking to another part.  Nonetheless, the answer seemed to come suddenly and from no corner of my awareness of which I was conscious.

The answer, which surprised me, seemed to come packaged in love: it felt warm, reassuring, certain.  “Just enjoy it.”

Enjoying the Camino with some Amigos del Camino from Seville.

Enjoying the Camino with some Amigos del Camino from Seville.

On subsequent Caminos I have begun walking with the same prayer/question and had equally surprising but very different answers.

With my Catholic Christian background, this answer, wrapped in love and peace, felt wholesome.  I can imagine it coming from the Love and Peace within me, but I can also externalise it, as the Spanish do and feel the physical Jesus walking beside me, a bit to my right and a half-step behind.  It doesn’t matter what explanation I give the phenomenon of receiving a reply, from that moment on I accepted that I had nothing else to do but enjoy the Camino.

 

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Miracles

Pilgrimage  –  Miracles for all.

 

Fairies, magic, and wonder on the right. Miracles, faith and saints on the right.

As a child, Christmas was pantomime time and at Peter Pan I remember saving Tinkerbelle’s life by clapping frantically as an act of my faith in fairies.  About 40 years on I no longer believed in faries and I also thought that happiness was something that belonged to childhood.  I was immersed in “reality”: family responsibilities, mortgage and so on.

Well, I’ve been cured of all that “reality” nonsense since I started walking and don’t find beliefsabout reality helpful any more.  Beliefs are like classroom walls: they cut off our horizons.

Wide horizons are a joy on the Camino.

Wide horizons are a joy on the Camino.

What I can tell you about is my memory of experiences, vapours I have breathed which have been envigorating, life-giving and transforming.   The Camino has changed me.  Yes, the mean, manipulating, angry, critical and rational man you may have seen in me has evaporated and if you happen to be one of the many whom I have wronged, read on.

So what’s all this about miracles?

One of the difficulties about being a Roman Catholic is that the Church keeps getting in the way of the best experiences and joys of the spiritual life.  But wait…..first of all………….

So what’s all this about religion?

My first great miracle was on my first Camino, The Via de La Plata.  Very early on, before my first blisters had burst, after my first night, a night sleeping out alone in a field,

Simple accommodation on my first night, first Camino.

Simple accommodation on my first night, first Camino.

I awoke feeling a great freedom from my former need for a bed, a roof or even a tent to pass a night asleep.  Maybe, I thought, there are other things I don’t need.

Feeling lighter and freer, I strode on and confidently walked across a small stream and sank in up to my right knee and couldn’t lift my foot out of a huge dollop of mud.  I wriggled off my sandal, found terra firma for my other foot and levered myself up the bank.

Sandal extraced from sinking mud.

Sandal extracted from sinking mud.

My sandals were my only footwear. This incident freed me from thinking that walking in wet footwear was a “bad thing”, a long held belief from childhood.  So what else might I be released from believing?

Everything!!

It was 18th March and I began to see flowers everywhere.

Flowers noticed while walking in wet sandals.

Flowers noticed while walking in wet sandals.

“It doesn’t matter!”, I felt.  I could have taken up recruiting for http://www.thefuckitlife.com/.

Yet, I was on a Pilgrimage – an act of Faith in a sense.  Faith is not what I thought it was – I used to think it was about believing in things, like God and the Virgin birth.   All beliefs, whoever held them, lost their power; they were no more solid than my foothold in the mud. Beliefs were not worth dying for.  A faith is not worth dying for, nor an educational theory nor an insecurity.  And that is still my position on “Religion”, although you will find on this The-Raft-of-Corks blog over 60 posts inspired by spiritual experiences.

 

So why do I say so much about miracles and saints and the Church?

I felt freedom and felt free to immerse myself in anything I chose (which wouldn’t be a muddy burn).  With all this freedom I saw no reason to look further than my own roots since I felt no great need to renounce them, even when faced with an enticing choice of religions, sects, philosophies and juicy nihilisms.  I’m Scottish of mainly Irish Catholic breeding so there’s plenty to chew on.

Easter Eggs in Seville, start of the Via de la Plata

Easter Eggs in Seville, start of the Via de la Plata

Also I already know loads about Roman Catholicism: I have too few years of life left to plunge myself as deeply in Buddhism or Zoroastrianism, all things being equal, absolutely. So the balance points, for me, to an election for my unrejected roots.  I was lumped with that inheritance and even though there is much of it I don’t like, it is my language for these very, very difficult-to-express matters like life, death, suffering, world poverty, genocide, love, powerlessness and our infinitesimal smallness in the universe and in time, whatever that is.

"For to be aware and to be are the same"  Parmenides

“For to be aware and to be are the same” Parmenides

Given a 2000 year old belief system, with a rich vocabulary, a history of repeated mistakes, a track-record of misunderstanding of its own objectives, a big following of the faithful and the disgruntled, wonderful music, a rich basis of ritual practice, good liturgy and hundreds of mystics on the margins, a sacred literature of quality of all different styles and pretensions………well, why should I look elsewhere?  I’m landed with this family, even if the cupboards are filled with abused skeletons and sinfullness.  A bit like my own life – with abused skeletons replaced by obese, inebriated skeletons.

So, while not believing that St James ever set foot in Spain, or rather not caring, I immerse myself in this ancient tradition of walking to Santiago de Compostella…

Santiago Cathedral.  Burial place of St. James the Apostle. (Maybe....or not likely)

Santiago Cathedral. Burial place of St. James the Apostle. (Maybe….or not likely)

 

 Miracles?

Yes, free of beliefs (Miracle no.1), immersed in but not confined by my roots, I was disposed to meet with miracles.  Two days later my blisters began.

 

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The Caminos to Santiago de Compostella. The Camino as Pilgrimage.

The Caminos to Santiago de Compostella

Here you will find information, maps, GPS routes for the Ruta de la Lana, albergues which are open on some of the long Caminos de Santiago in Spain.  My intention is to tell a story of an interior journey of personal change.  Others have written much better than I can about the various Caminos as regards their history, their art and their traditions.    A good place to look for an overview of the routes is here: http://www.mundicamino.com/

Here I am writing about my experiences on three Caminos,

The Via de La Plata (2010)

Roman Aquaduct, Merida

Roman Aquaduct, Merida

The Camino de Levante (2011)

almansa

Almansa, the Castle

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 and

The Ruta de La Lana (2013)

Encouraging graffiti near Alicante

Encouraging graffiti near Alicante

 

Camino as Pilgrimage.

I am writing about my spiritual journey although there will be details about life on the Camino of interest to anyone wanting to walk one of these routes.

Map of Spain's Caminos to Santiago

Map of Spain’s Caminos to Santiago

 

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The Raft of Corks

Fifteen years ago I sat in a hall with several hundred people listening to a Catholic priest describing the state of the Roman Church.  It seemed to me that so many people of my age, adolescents at the time of Vatican II, became adults at the same moment as the Church began to disintegrate.  It was no longer the barque of St Peter, but rather flotsam and jetsam left to the oceans’ currents. Yet our childhood has shaped our religious consciouness: we have a shared vocabulary,  embedded cultural attitudes which shape our morality,  the same sacramental initiation for all and a sound heritage of spiritual wisdom, often armour-plated, and disguised in gold leaf, by a theology shaped by a need to justify, convince and contain; intollerent of other positions.  Shaped to fit, like corks, we were cast overboard in the shipwreck of Vatican authority.  Nonetheless we harbour, in this last phase of our lives, an affection for Christianity and an awareness that the wreck contains treasure of infinite value.  The raft of corks is a simple metaphor for the platform which this generation, who enjoyed the music and freedom of the 60’s and 70’s, is today building from which we will recover this treasure and emerge together from the individualism which has eroded society in the wealthy nations throughout our lifetime.

 

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IN GOD’S HANDS

Setting off on a pilgrimage is different from beginning any other journey.  Although you may know where you are going you have no idea what sort of experiences you are about to have, and this is especially so if you put yourself in God’s hands.  The unexpected, the marvellous, the miraculous will happen if you can let go of your every-day concerns and just walk!!

I hope that this blog about pilgrimage and prayer will encourage you to embark on your own pilgrimage or connect with your own experiences.

Camino de Santiago

On the Camino de Santiago

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